Bernard and I went to the Martin de Candre savonnerie yesterday (go here to see their website, which is in sometimes-amusing English). I was hoping to see the soap-making process, because they are one of the last true soapmakers in France - they make it from start to finish rather than buying a base and adding fragrance - but no one is allowed to watch because something they use (glycerin, maybe?) is dangerous. The store was lovely, though, and had a wonderful spicy smell.
After that we went to the Caves de Louis de Grenelle (go here for clearer pictures than I could take), which is the last family-owned producer of vins de fines bulles in the area (...something like that - our guide was speaking quickly and in French, so some of the details are kind of fuzzy). Here are my pictures, if you want to see them...they're very blurry because there was not much light and I really did not want to be the Annoying American Tourist on the tour who blinds people by taking pictures in the near-dark.
I know, it's almost worthless because you can't really make out anything...the rectangle-ish dark blobs along the sides of the tunnel are stacks of bottles. The wine is fermented that way without being touched for between 1 and 3 years, depending on the type of wine. The three year fermentation gives the wine very very fine bubbles and a very light taste, while the one year fermentation makes for a sparkling wine that tastes like an unsweet white wine with bubbles.
Bernard encouraged me to sit here and have my picture taken, which I guess kind of made me That Tourist, because the rest of the group just stood there and watched me. I don't care, though. This is the throne in a ceremonial wine storage room. None of that really makes sense to me - ceremonial? a throne?? - but apparently some group of vintners inducts new members there. Several bottles of each vintner's wine is stored in the room for posterity.This was the view crossing the Loire to go home:
A great way to see all the highlights of the city!
And now, Chenonceau:
Having visited Chenonceau many times, Pascal knew things other tourists didn't. He and I were the only ones to take the path along this little river and down through the woods...it was beautiful and very quiet.
Gardens of Diane de Poitiers. If you don't know the story of Chenonceau (it's okay, I didn't either)...basically King Henri II gave it to his mistress Diane de Poitiers as a gift, but when he died his wife Catherine de Medici kicked her out. Diane de Poitiers had the bridge across the river constructed, and Catherine added the gallery above it. Pascal told me that the gallery was used as a hospital in the first World War and as a crossing point for the Resistance during the second World War. The side with the gardens (and north, I think, into France) was occupied by the Germans, and the other side was free. All other bridges having been destroyed to prevent crossing, Chenonceau was used as passage (mostly for escape, I think) to the free zone.
Garden of Catherine de Medici.
View of the chateau walking up from the main entrance (which we did not take) ...this is all there was before Diane built the bridge.
Chenonceau!!! I mean....wow. This is the first view I had of the chateau, after walking up the path less travelled (it has its benefits, ask Robert Frost). It is very striking. I have to say it's my favorite chateau in France, although I haven't visited Versailles yet. This one is just so unique, though. Plus the fact that it was designed by women makes it even cooler.. . .
We had a lovely dinner tonight - fresh, HUGE oysters from La Rochelle (on the Atlantic coast of France) and some kind of eggplant-tomato-chicken dish that Pascal invented. When French people drink wine, they usually say "santé!" - which loosely translates as "to your health!" - but tonight they all toasted me and said nice things about me. It was very sweet. Jonathan also said that I have a home here and that I'm always welcome...what an amazing place to be able to claim as home! Hopefully I'll be able to come back in the fall with some friends!
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